4 years ago I returned from my solo motorcycle tour of the Americas. I had return a month earlier than expected, because my father’s health was failing. He passed away 3 month after I returned. In this life, I had not love another more than I have loved my father. His passing was very difficult for me, but even more difficult was me making the decision for him to die with dignity when others are not able to do so.

After he passed, 6 month later we had COVID lockdown. There wasn’t a lot of time to process, between liquidating the cars he purchased when he was not all mentally there, and finding our way back to normalcy. COVID affected us all in different ways, but between returning from a year of non-stop adventure to the conundrum of day to day grind, and finally to the restriction from the lockdowns, I regressed into a place where no amount of light can pierce the box I have built.

In this place I built, time have stopped, I obsessed over every dollar I spent as if I was still on the road. I needed more time, more time to process, more time to say goodbye, more time with him. But alas, time is the only consistent thing in life and just like that 3 years went by, going through the motions of day to day while holding on to what I could hold on to.

Jan 20th, 2023 Saturday

Summer of 2022 was my first trip since I returned in 2018, I took a ride for two weeks to Big Bend National Park in Texas. All my bottle up emotions surfaced, time started moving again, I found myself bit by bit as the miles passes with each throttle. I was finally free again. When I came back, I booked a flight to Paris to meet up with my friend I have not seen in 10 years, and then at the same time I booked a flight to Cairo to celebrate my birthday in January with my bff Miniyawee, which was long overdue. I flew out on the 20th. This was my 41st birthday adventure, and the first time in 4 years I felt like myself again.

Jan 21st, 2023 Saturday

My layover in Jeddah was 2 hours, still daylight at the time, there is a 7 hour difference to Washington DC. When I arrived in Egypt it was already dark. The VISA process was an absolute joke, you literally go to a side counter that says “bank”, which I was told I need to have exact change, cause this bank does not have any change… So, I gave the guy 25 USD and they gave me a sticker. They do not check anything, not your name, passport or who you are. It does not matter what you are there for or who you are staying with. Just 25 USD, and you get your 90 day VISA. Stamping out the custom took 2 seconds. My 1 check bag, that is a different story… it took over an hour to show up. In comparison when I return to the states, the bag came out in 10 minutes. When I walked out I was greeted by Zyad and Ali, Miniyawee’s boys. I do not know if it is just me, but it is always great to see familiar faces when you arrive at the airport.

I stopped by at the Elgawhary residence briefly, and off we go to dinner to meet Haithem, the man, the legend who knows everyone. In typical, Miniyawee style, we go to a very posh resturant in New Cairo.

First we have tea with mint, grape leaf, and hookah. Then we have beef, pigeon, and lamb. First time having hookah with my meal, it made the experience much more enjoyable. I am not sure if I can go back to only doing hookah without food. The food in general was fantastic, the lamb was a little overcooked, the pigeon tasted like a very lean chicken. The hookah is so much better in Egypt, taste better, not as harsh and the way they setup the coals is so much better than the foils in the states.

At the end of dinner, one of Miniyawees friend showed up that lives in a converted bus, so of course we have to have a look. Living in a vehicle is not really a thing in Egypt, so this lady is sort of a pioneer. The build is hobbyist level, there are electrical inconsistencies and the finishing was very rough. Nevertheless it was very cool build.

Jan 22, 2023 Sunday

Stayed with Haithem in his two bedroom luxury apt, and we went out for some traditional breakfast the next morning. When we arrived people are double parked, literally just blocking people in, and if you want to leave you have to find the person. lol. My first Egyptian breakfast. They do not put anything on the eggs, which is not what I am used to, you have to add the salt and pepper yourself. Miniyawee met with us at the end of breakfast, and to Cairo we go to see the pyramids.

Here we are on our way to Cairo downtown from New Cairo. There is my host Haithem driving us to the pyramids. The houses on the side are the old buildings that are not build to any building standards. Many of which are being demolish for new high rises.

Got to the Pyramids in no time, entry fee was around 10 dollars for foreigners and I think 2 dollars for locals. I did my camel ride, and touched the pyramid. The sheer size of the stones is unimaginable. Also checked out the Sphinx in the same place on the way out. It is a massive tourist trap, I’m surprised I was able to get the shots I got that seem to be very vacant.

Headed to downtown Cairo, to the Al-Hussain Mosque. Miniyawee joked that I was doing my “Shahada”. lol. Otherwise know by the marshmellows as “shalala”. Shopped at the Khan El-khalili Bazaar, and had dessert at the Naguib Mahfouz Cafe. Bought some incense sticks and took pictures at the famous Instagram arch.

We then had lunch on the Nile, the restaurant we wanted to go to was closed due to political reasons, so we picked a random restaurant down the strip, called “THE MOOD”. Food was mediocre, hookah was okay. The view was great. I saw the Ahmad tea, and reminded me of my bro Salman and all the Ahmad tea we drank during his stay with me in college park during the pandemic.

Traffic back to New Cairo was a nightmare, over 2 hours from Cairo downtown to New Cairo at a mere 30 some km, or 18 ish miles. The people crossing the street was wild, cars going at full speed, while they play frogger on the hardest difficulty. I passed out like a kid in the backseat. We rested for the night, I head out the day after for Sharm El-Sheikh

January 23rd, 2023 Monday

Next morning, we ate at a Lebanese restaurant for breakfast in another posh restaurant #theminiyaweexperience. First time having hookah with breakfast, I can get use to this. Off I go to the airport.

I arrived at Sharm El-Sheikh in only 1 hour of flight. The flight was only 45 dollars one way. Miniyawee and Haithem will drive there and meet up with me in two days (Wednesday). The accommodation at the dive center was arrange by Haithem. 20 some dollars a day, with patio view over the Red Sea. Haithem was also able to exchange money with me, so I did not have to go to the money exchange. All these little things, between booking the flight, the car, the hotel, and money exchange are a lot of stressors when traveling. The fact that all those things are curated and I did not have to worry about transportation, where to eat or what to eat or anything for that matter really made the experience a real vacation. I could not thank Miniyawee and Haithem enough for this experience.

After getting settle in, I walked around the town and took photo of the town center and all the shops. Dahab is a very beautiful town, everything is remarkably clean. I have being to a lot of small coastal town on my trip to Ushuaia, and typically inside the resort area is clean, but outside of the resort is typically very messy. However Dahab is super clean. No trash floating around, no dog poop on the floor. On the walk back I saw a massage parlor, I immediately text Miniyawee with the photo and told her “this looks like a happy ending place”. Ironically 3 days later when Me, Miniyawee, Sara, and Haithem was walking down the strip, Haithem informs us that, that particular shop is known to be that “special kind of massage parlor”. lol. Sometimes you just have that six sense. Also KFC means Korean Fry Chicken here.

Jan 24th, 2023 Tuesday

I woke up to the sunrise over the Red Sea, and complimentary Egyptian breakfast, where I get to sit and enjoy the ocean view. Lots of cats surrounds me when I sit down, waiting for food. I can get use to this kind of mornings everyday. I also accidentally ate the feta cheese two days in a row, and have no problems lol.

First day diving, oh the sweet irony. It did not register that I’m staying at a hotel called the Penguin Divers Club, until I went to get my gear. I looked over at the board, and there I was a Penguinito, starting at 9:00. lol. I gather my wits and my gear and headed to the dive site. We loaded up the truck with tanks and weights and the carpet to put everything on. I have a unreasonable fear of the deep water, whether it is the ocean or a very deep lake. I once swam across a lake and panicked halfway through the swim, literally had to get picked up by a boat. It was embarrassing, but I also know I’m irrationally afraid of super deep waters. So, like typically how I face my fears, when I’m ready, head on and scared shitless.

I have three dives today, two 5 meters with multiple skill practice. Then one 12 meter dive.

After the first dive I drank a ton of salt water, panicked a few times at only 5 meters below the surface. I was breathing too hard, using up all the air. My trainer’s name is Ata, very experience and very patient, but his English was not so great. lol. When I came out of the first dive he said “take off your fins”, but the way he said the word fin and his accent I heard “take off your pants”. So naturally I reply, “here?” lol. He said yes, and repeated “take off your pants (fins)”. It took a few repeats and I finally understood what he was saying and then I took off my fins. bahahaha.

Second dive was just as terrible, I came up to the surface when I should not have. I could not breath after choking on water, needless to say I completely exhausted myself. At this point, I was wondering if this is going to be a bad Asian. I finish the dive, but was very tired and exhausted, but more importantly I was defeated mentally.

Third dive was 12 meters, I struggle to maintain my buoyancy control, going up and down constantly. I could not understand what to do when I’m either sinking to the bottom or going up toward the surface. Alas I completed the exercise of the under water square and rings at 12 meters. When I was done with the final dive, I was so tired I did not want to do anything else. I got back to the dive center at 6 pm. Showered, and passed out for 2 hours. Then I got myself out of bed, because I was hungry but too exhausted to move, but I knew I be super tire if I do not get some food to energize myself. So I went down the street and got a cheese-less pizza Egyptian style. Super thin crust and ton of peppers (hot peppers). It hit the spot, I ate the whole thing. Then I went back to my room. I was dreading going diving the next day.

January 25th, 2023 Wednesday

Second day we started with a 200 meter swim test. I started fine, with the current, then when I swam back against the current I almost died. Sooooo out of shape. I ate some food and went down for 3 more dives, 2 at 5 meter with exercises and 1 at 12 meter. Same as yesterday.

I started learning to be calmer in the water, but I was still breathing way too hard and using too much air. The first dive was better than yesterday, but I still drank a bunch of salt water. Mentally I was exhausted and trying to run away. A lot of it has to do with unrealistic and realistic fear. But I start to be more familiar with the mechanics of the equipment.

Second dive after a few hours was better than yesterday, but I was still dreading every second of it. Breathing heavy, using almost twice amount of air as my instructor. He keeps switching weights to see how I do, but my problem was really mental. After the second dive, my head was pounding from too much nitrogen inhalation. But today I did not have to emergency surface to the top. I was able to do the two sessions within relative control. But I had to take a longer break to get rid of the headache.

third dive went better as well, at 12 meters. I was able to finish the dive without any problems. Ata gave me some encouraging statement, and told me to “take off your pants (fins)” after every dive. I surface from this last dive, and I see my publicist has returned with Haithem. I was very happy to see them. I felt a little scared doing something I was very uncomfortable with, and being alone in a place I am unfamiliar with. Many times I wonder what would happen if I choked to death and had to be necessitated and no one is around. But I finish the last dive of the day. When people ask me how I am, my response was always “better than yesterday”, and it was, but it was not enjoyable.

At night, I showered and washed up, and headed out with Haithem, Miniyawee, to meet Sara (who came with them by car), and Sahar who is a local friend of Haithem that lives in Dahab. We went to this very cool seafood restaurant, where we picked the fish we want, and they weigh the fish and cooked everything into a seafood platter. I ate everything. Probably ate too much. Then after we went to their favorite place to have drinks and hookah. We had to share hookah, and Miniyawee tell me pull pull in arabic. All i heard was shettheshet, thats how it #shetheshet was born. It was good time and better company. I was ambitious and ate a lava cake desert. Way too much sugar, did not sit well with me at all. I was a little worry that I would have problem with my final dive on my birthday. But alas I woke up just fine the next day.

January 26th, 2023 Thursday (41st Birthday)

The following morning, Miniyawee came by to have breakfast with me. It was my birthday and final day of diving instruction so I would not see them until the afternoon. I did my first dive, and did not feel as anxious, and did not drink any salt water, it was definitely better all around. I also started to figure out how to control my breathing to maintain my buoyancy. We did a few more exercises, and dive to 18 meters. Maximum depth for my open water license. After my first dive, I went to have a second lunch, with the crew, they were just around the corner. Last photo is my instructor making a ripple wave with water bubbles I still have not figured out how to do that.

Last and final dive for the day came after a very long break. Like a switch that turn on or the fear switch turned off. I went in the water, very comfortable, and actually look forward for the adventure. The panic was gone. I was able to control my depth with ease, I also used A LOT less air, and now I’m start to sip air. Ata was very please with my progress. The decompression stop was no sweat. I got to see a lot of marine life.

Just like that, by the skin of my teeth at last second I pulled through mentally and I’m PADI certified for Open water scuba.

We had more friends that were going to join us for dinner, but there were some political issue at a checkpoint and they could not make it pass Sharm El-Sheikh. We continued our dinner plan, up the mountain into the desert mountain area for dinner. We purchased a VIP spot at the end, with our own fire pit, table and mats on the ground. The setting was cinema like, and it was definitely a unique experience. They cook the goat underground and brings it out, I ate the goat head, and the tastiest part was the eyeballs.

I wished my father was there with me, I remember all the stories he has told me in his younger days in Saudi Arabia. He would have loved it.

I could not have bought this experience even if I wanted to, 1) I would not even know this was an option 2.) having the right company is perhaps more important. This could not have being a better birthday present. I owe it to Miniyawee, Haithem, and Sara, for this unforgettable experience.

January 27th, 2023 Friday

Next day we all decided to take it easy after eating way too much food the day before. So, we ate some light breakfast and headed over to the beach area on the other side of Dahab. Of course there is hookah involved. There is hookah every meal. Nice relaxing day, I contemplated of quitting my job many times. I mean how can I go back to work after this. lol.

At night we went to the Shark restaurant, for another wonderful meal. I get to wash my hand like a royal. Very touristy but it’s for the experience. Once dinner was over, Sara took me shopping for my new poncho. We went up an down the strip to every store, and even saw a local fight, lol. She is really good at haggling with the vendor. We met up with Miniyawee and Haithem at our usual spot after about 2 hours of shopping the strip.

January 28th, 2023 Saturday (my flight is at 2:40 am)

Next morning I had to retire my 20 year old sandals, they did not like the salt water. We went to breakfast when Haithem did some work, we took some tea in front of the Red Sea, then Haithem drove us back to New Cairo. He was driving averaging 120-140 mpg on this strip of desert with nothing in between. Feels like the autobahn. lol. We got back in 4 hours versus 8 hours by GPS standard. It definitely was not his first rodeo.

I went to watch the twins ride horses while Miniyawee takes a break. I took some shot for them on my camera. Then Dr. Elgawhary took me out to my last dinner in Egypt. Yes and hookah. They called me a transport cab, and I bid my farewells.

As I reflect back of my two days in Cairo and my week in Dahab, Egypt. I can not help but notice, how open people are for friendship, between my travel companions to the scuba dive center staff, a sharp contrast to the people I interact with daily back home. There is too much political and social media brainwashing/ identity and not enough living around the DC area. I too, am guilty of it. That is why these trips are so important. Of course I did not forget Miniyawee who has always being there for me, and making this trip happen for me, to give me this unforgettable birthday experience. These are memories that will be close to me for a long time. After years of her trying to get me to try my hands on scuba diving, and I refuse vehemently, I have finally done it and I might be hooked.

Another year has passed. It is remarkable how fast time goes by when you do not continue to explore new possibilities. As I looked back in the last four years, I wished I had done more than I did. Years ago when I discover motorcycling, one of the most important lesson I learned from my mentor (Yermo) was that you pay for the experience not the luxury. I have stayed true to those words ever since. I have lost my way after returning from my trip, like many others before me, when you experience a great loss you hold on to what you have, in order to avoid change. Hoping maybe for a little bit more time that you wish you had. For my 41st birthday, I flew out to spend time with my bff Miniyawee and you may think I also gifted myself a PADI scuba license. It was a lot more than that. Just like when I started motorcycling, I told myself and anyone that would listen, that “it was too dangerous”, “I could not trust myself”, “too expensive”, and whatever reasons are left. We all put cages around our minds regardless how much money we have. As we get older our world naturally get smaller as we become more cautious from past scars or negative experiences, it is important to continue to brakethecycles. 11 years since the beginning of my motorcycle travel journey, I am among the 1% of the motorcyclist in the world that have ridden the Americas. Today, i conquer another fear, and a new world has open up to me. The real gift I gave to myself for my 41st birthday was freedom.